How to Cut Carpet for Installation and Removal

1. Position the Carpet Pieces

   Lay the two carpet pieces side by side, overlapping by about 3 inches. Make sure that the pile is facing the same direction in both pieces. If you are unsure, check the back of the carpet for arrows indicating the direction of the pile.

2. Measure and Cut From the Backside

   • Roll back the top piece of carpet. On the backside, measure 1 inch in from its outer edge and mark the backing at 12-inch intervals.
   • Snap a chalk line through all the marks to create a cutting line.
   • Place a board or scrap of plywood underneath the rolled-back edge to protect the carpet below from the knife blade.
   • Lay a straightedge along the chalk line, and cut through the carpet with a carpet knife or utility knife, using the straightedge as a guide for the knife. Be sure to cut down a single line of backing threads as you work. A very uniform, straight-cutting line is essential to making the seam as invisible as possible.

   Tip

   Replace the utility knife blade regularly throughout the process. Have replacement blades on hand before you get started. As you work, inspect the blade for knicks along the edge of the blade. Cutting through the top layer and backing will dull the knife. Knicks in the blade cause fraying.

3. Cut the Second Edge

   • Lay the newly cut edge of the carpet back down over the uncut piece. It should still overlap the bottom piece by about 2 inches.
   • Place a straightedge along ​the edge of the cut carpet, and use the knife to cut through the bottom piece of carpet, slicing through only a single row of threads and cutting as straight as possible.

4. Position the Seaming Tape

   • Center a line of carpet seaming tape underneath the two cut edges of the two carpet pieces, with the adhesive side facing up.
   • Lay out the tape along the entire length, with the two pieces of carpet perfectly matched along their edges. Using a single piece of tape for the whole seam helps keep the seam tight.
   • Carefully butt the two edges of the carpet together as tightly as possible.

5. Position the Seaming Iron

   • Place a carpet seaming iron under the two pieces of carpet against the carpet seam tape.
   • Plug in the iron.
   • Depending on the type of tape, you might need to heat it for several minutes to activate the adhesive on the seam tape.
   • Follow the tape and iron manufacturer's recommendations for heating times. 

6. Join the Seams

   • Move the iron slowly and steadily down the seam and across the tape, allowing it to linger long enough to activate the adhesive. As you move the iron, gently press the carpet pieces behind it into the tape while pushing them tightly together.
   • As you move down the seam with the iron, roll over the joined seam behind the iron, using a seam roller to press the carpet edges into the tape adhesive and ensure they lie flat. 
   • After rolling, place heavy objects, such as large books, over the rolled area of the seam to hold the carpet in place. Leave the weights in place until the adhesive sets.

7. Complete the Seam

   • Continue seaming the carpet until you reach the end of the seam.
   • Leave the weights on the seam for another 15 minutes before removing them. The final result should be a carpeted surface that appears nearly unbroken, with the pile threads hiding the seam.

How to Cut Carpet for Removal

1. Pull Up Carpet

   • Pulling up the carpet along the baseboards is more orderly, but those edges might be tacked down too hard. When working with the edges, wear heavy work gloves.
   • If you don't notice a loose wall edge and it's too difficult to pull up, cut a hole in the carpet large enough to fit your hand through, about 4 inches long.
   • Pull upward. The carpet will be looser in the middle, away from edges tacked down well.

2. Start Cutting the Carpet

   • While holding the carpet up, cut a larger piece down. By holding the carpet up, it prevents damage to the subfloor.
   • Cut strips about 3 feet long, always cutting as you pull up. Keep the segments small, making them easier to roll up and light enough to move around.
     

3. Pull Up the Remaining Sections

   • Pull up a corner using pliers if you have left the edges for the end. Pull it toward you to detach it from the sharp carpet tack strip that holds it to the floor along the wall. Not all carpets have a carpet tack strip, but if yours does, be mindful of the nails sticking out along the strip.
   • Cut into manageable strips and tape them up with duct tape.

4. Remove the Carpet Tack Strip (Optional)

   Not all carpets have tack strips, but if yours does, remove the carpet tack strips with a pry bar. Slide the pry bar underneath the tack strip and pop the strips off the subflooring.

5. Clean the Floor

   Once all the old carpet is pulled up, clean the flooring using a broom for large debris and a vacuum or shop vac for the remaining dirt and dust.

When to Call a Professional

Carpet installation—particularly seaming—can be tricky for DIYers, especially beginners. A poor job seaming carpet results in a haphazard appearance that you'll have to live with for a long time. Considering that professional carpet installation typically adds less than $1 per square foot to the overall cost, many homeowners who attempt to install a carpet with seams resolve never to do it again.

But a DIYer on a very tight budget, or one who likes the challenge, can install a seamed carpet with professional-looking results. It's regarded as an advanced project, suitable for advanced DIYers who are patient and willing to take a bit of a risk.